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 1 
 on: September 07, 2010, 03:52:14 PM 
Started by Larry DeSaules - Last post by Larry DeSaules
To volunteer during the Fourmile Canyon wildfire situation, please call Volunteer Connection at (303) 444-4904 or e-mail services@volunteerconnection.net.
Specific volunteer needs are still being assessed at this time, but a list of potential volunteers and their contact information is being compiled.
To offer donations or goods, please call (303) 413-7737.

 2 
 on: August 19, 2010, 12:14:48 PM 
Started by Steph Bruno - Last post by Steph Bruno
I am interested in selling my climbing rack. I have only used it a little as I took up trad climbing and then have just not climbed much the last two summers.  I have only done a few leads with this gear and have never had a lead fall. There are two pieces that I bought off a friend, but the rest is nearly new. It is a complete rack so your won't need to add anything else. The following is what I have:
 
Slings:
 
4 Mammut dyneema long slings  (48 in blue)
10 Mammut dyneema short slings (24 in. yellow)
28 Mammut lightweight wiregate carabiners for the above
 
Black Diamond C3 Camalot size 00
Black Diamond C3 Camalot size 0
Black Diamond C3 Camalot size 1
Black Diamond C3 Camalot size 2
Black Diamond Camalot size .3
Black Diamond Camalot size .4
Black Diamond Camalot size .5
Black Diamond Camalot size .75 (two of these)
Black Diamond Camalto size 1
Black Diamond Camalot size 2 (two of these)
Black Diamond Camalot size 3 (two of these)
Black Diamond Camalot size 4 (two of these)
 
Misc:
a set of black diamond nuts - 7 in total
a set of wild country nuts - 11 in total
a set of tri-cams - 5 in total
a Yates screamer
9 black diamond straigt gate gear carabiners
2 hotwire wire-gate gear carabiners
4 helium carabiners
8 mammut carabiners
DMM revolver carabiner
long cordelet with large carabiner
 
If I add all of this up and look at current retail prices it is worth about $1,900  Given that I bought it a few years ago, I would be willing to sell it for $1,000. Email stephbruno67@yahoo.com if you are interested.

Steph

(Bruce, no, I am not giving up climbing, I just figured it wasn't good to leave my trad gear hanging around if I wasn't using it.)
 

 3 
 on: August 17, 2010, 07:12:45 PM 
Started by 115985 - Last post by 115985
Looking for climbers for morning top-roping at N. Table Mtn 5.6-5.10 routes. Jan Beckedorff  240-422-1923  jbeckedorff@hotmail.com  (phoning is better as I don't check email every day)




 4 
 on: August 10, 2010, 07:44:23 PM 
Started by Larry DeSaules - Last post by Larry DeSaules
Fundraiser for CMC's Youth  Ed Program.

Date     09/02/2010     More Info Phone     303-996-2647
Location    Foss Auditorium, American Mountaineering Center
Ticket Price    $10.00    http://www.cmc.org/events/eventdetails.aspx?EventID=2133
         
Enjoy an evening of inspiring and hair-raising tales and images from the expeditions of scientist and explorer Pasquale Scaturro. Adventurer and geophysicist Pasquale Scaturro, one of the planet’s foremost expedition leaders, has been trekking to the farthest, most challenging reaches of the globe for over 25 years. He’s led three expeditions to Mt. Everest, including one in which Erik Weihenmayer became the first blind climber to reach the summit.

Scaturro has also spearheaded multiple descents of major world-class rivers including the Bio Bio in Chile, the Omo and Zambezi in Africa and the first-ever descent of the Nile from its source high in the mountains of Ethiopia to the Mediterranean Sea, a distance of 3,260 miles. The historic 114-day expedition involved suicidal rapids, crocodile attacks, gunfire from bandits and arrests by unfriendly militias. It was featured in the blockbuster 2005 IMAX film Mystery of the Nile. In addition to leading expeditions, Scaturro travels the world as an exploration geophysicist, working on oil and gas exploration and development projects in many of the most remote, dangerous, politically and technically treacherous areas on earth.

Scaturro’s leadership and teamwork abilities, along with his logistical expertise, hard work and enormous commitment have enabled him to straddle the realms of outdoor exploration and corporate America unlike any other expedition leader. Scaturro has appeared on the “Today” show, “NBC Nightly News,” A&E, ESPN, Turner Television, National Public Radio and MSNBC and has been featured in numerous publications, including The Los Angeles Times and The Denver Post, along with Time and National Geographic Adventure magazines.

His motivational talks have inspired audiences throughout the United States and Europe and taught people to push the boundaries of what they believe is possible. Married at a young age, serving in the U.S. military and struggling to complete a degree in geophysics and raise three children at the same time, Scaturro learned what it meant to sacrifice and still strive to make his dreams materialize both in business and on the rivers and mountains of the world. Scaturro lives in Colorado.

 5 
 on: August 04, 2010, 08:20:32 AM 
Started by Bruce Badger - Last post by Bruce Badger
I put a top rope trip in the CMC schedule for this Saturday 08/07/10 to North Table mountain. The weather man says that it's not going to rain so lets go do some climbing. Bring plenty of water , it will be nice and warm. BRCS required.
Bruce Badger
303-730-7068

 6 
 on: July 27, 2010, 01:16:41 PM 
Started by Mark Nelson - Last post by Mark Nelson
They did end up posting their account on the Proj; they actually had worked the situation for quite a while.

But the decision to pull the rope from the upper anchor is basically what hosed them; which was interestingly the intended plan.

Quite fortunate everything turned out as well as it did.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado__rocky_mountain_region/diamond_rescue_today_721/106834158__3#a_106838563

Some things:

1st one down keeps the ropes,
Don't pull your ropes unless you're both good at the same anchor,
(these are what ended up saving Bob & I)

Maybe a new trick -- both people carry a portion of the rack, screws/v-threader/anchor stuff.

Also, a PLB can help notify if you go out in the backcountry.

Like myself "F the PLB!" -- yes, that's certainly more than likely the philosophy that I'll still have --

However, the point remains, once you are hosed and need help; you need help as soon as you can get it.


 7 
 on: July 27, 2010, 08:36:32 AM 
Started by Mark Nelson - Last post by tfelix
I haven't heard many details on this--I'd like to learn more.  What I have heard (elsewhere) I am certain is incorrect, so it sounds like there's some mis-information out there. 

Based on this post, there is at least one take home lesson, as Mark mentioned: when you rappel, always maintain control of the ends of the rope--don't let them go--especially if you're not directly in line with the prior anchor.  In a situation like this one (first rappeler went to wrong anchor), some prussiking and/or pendulum traversing would likely solve the problem without much delay. 

 8 
 on: July 25, 2010, 04:52:38 PM 
Started by Mark Nelson - Last post by Mark Nelson
Don't know if the team wrote up their account, I wanted to keep this off the Proj until I get a better word from authority. Since it's not medical, I can relay some good info to reflect upon.

1st climber rapped off-line, which happens, gets safe & gets off the rope. (she didn't rap off the rope, just off-alignment to where the next anchor was)
2nd climber comes down goes to the correct anchor.

2nd climber pulls the rope.
I figure it must have been a processing brain fart to move fast without realizing their partner was where they were; or was planning on trying an aid climb from seeing this at the outset.


Unless it's medical concern to begin with, you don't plan to leave your partner on the wall.

In this case, once the 2nd climber pulled the rope, that was pretty much a rescue situation at that point.


I think of some things :
  • Try to toss some of the rope to the off-anchor, which I'm sure that was a primary thought and which wasn't going to work.
  • A solo aid climb might work if you had the natural features and pro -- but we have the rule to keep the rack with the first person rapping so they can make an anchor if needed. But if you could make an aid climb, get a bit higher, make an intermediate anchor and get your partner back in the rope and have them penji, then to prusik up to the correct anchor -- that would probably be my thought to try and solve the problem.
  • If terrain allowed, you could short-fix and get higher (tie the rope into the anchor and free climb it with pro); But you'd need the rack in any case to make the higher intermediate anchor.
  • Or possibly the 2nd goes down, does a penji, and aids up to the 1st climber -- 2nd climber still needs the rack.

So the right person needs the rack and the rope, and the natural features to make it all work. Anybody have other ideas??

Another point brought up is the first person rapping always keeps the ropes; I clip 8s into the anchor.

So, this can be a head scratcher; as a team, you just screwed the pooch, what's the best course at that point?
The solution used here was to not make the situation worse after working on it for a few hours, 2nd climber gets down, and called for help.

The rangers flew up top via heli, went down Keiners and went down the face and got the the climber/assisted with fixed lines.
As I wrote on the Proj as well as others, leaving your partner committed on the wall in the alpine environment can turn badly and become a medical emergency before you know it.


I will say admittedly, shit happens, if it weren't for Bob Brockwell helping me out on the Devil's Tower; we'd have been in a worse pickle. But we figured it out. If I remember, Tom & Dave relayed some great fun off the Cyn Pin with a nut tool, they figured it out, it sucked; but leaving your partner in the alpine, man, that's the result of a bad day that is just gonna get worse (she got pounded by weather as a result); not to mention put other people in harm's way for you.

 9 
 on: July 22, 2010, 05:01:32 PM 
Started by Mark Nelson - Last post by greg german
Yup.
Smells like team spirit. 'See ya'

prusik cords are a necessity.

 10 
 on: July 22, 2010, 04:45:37 PM 
Started by Mark Nelson - Last post by Mark Nelson
Over the past few days, someone bailed on their partner and left them on the wall for the night and necessitated a rescue.

I don't know what happened, it doesn't sound like an injury emergency.

If that isn't a wtf

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