Don't know if the team wrote up their account, I wanted to keep this off the Proj until I get a better word from authority. Since it's not medical, I can relay some good info to reflect upon.
1st climber rapped off-line, which happens, gets safe & gets off the rope. (she didn't rap off the rope, just off-alignment to where the next anchor was)
2nd climber comes down goes to the correct anchor.
2nd climber pulls the rope.
I figure it must have been a processing brain fart to move fast without realizing their partner was where they were; or was planning on trying an aid climb from seeing this at the outset.
Unless it's medical concern to begin with, you don't plan to leave your partner on the wall.
In this case, once the 2nd climber pulled the rope, that was pretty much a rescue situation at that point.
I think of some things :
- Try to toss some of the rope to the off-anchor, which I'm sure that was a primary thought and which wasn't going to work.
- A solo aid climb might work if you had the natural features and pro -- but we have the rule to keep the rack with the first person rapping so they can make an anchor if needed. But if you could make an aid climb, get a bit higher, make an intermediate anchor and get your partner back in the rope and have them penji, then to prusik up to the correct anchor -- that would probably be my thought to try and solve the problem.
- If terrain allowed, you could short-fix and get higher (tie the rope into the anchor and free climb it with pro); But you'd need the rack in any case to make the higher intermediate anchor.
- Or possibly the 2nd goes down, does a penji, and aids up to the 1st climber -- 2nd climber still needs the rack.
So the right person needs the rack and the rope, and the natural features to make it all work. Anybody have other ideas??
Another point brought up is the first person rapping always keeps the ropes; I clip 8s into the anchor.
So, this can be a head scratcher; as a team, you just screwed the pooch, what's the best course at that point?
The solution used here was to not make the situation worse after working on it for a few hours, 2nd climber gets down, and called for help.
The rangers flew up top via heli, went down Keiners and went down the face and got the the climber/assisted with fixed lines.
As I wrote on the Proj as well as others, leaving your partner committed on the wall in the alpine environment can turn badly and become a medical emergency before you know it.
I will say admittedly, shit happens, if it weren't for Bob Brockwell helping me out on the Devil's Tower; we'd have been in a worse pickle. But we figured it out. If I remember, Tom & Dave relayed some great fun off the Cyn Pin with a nut tool, they figured it out, it sucked; but leaving your partner in the alpine, man, that's the result of a bad day that is just gonna get worse (she got pounded by weather as a result); not to mention put other people in harm's way for you.